Orvieto Bagnoregio and Bolsena

We are met by Stefano Costantini, founder of Rome Cabs, our dear friend and the best tour operator in all of Italy!

We journey from Rome to three of Lazio's finest hilltop towns - Orvieto, Bagnoregio and Bolsena, and are treated to a spectacular degustation lunch in one of Orvieto's hidden gems!

We escape the crowds and heat of Rome's city center and begin our day with our dear friend Stefano who takes us first to the lovely hilltop town of Orvieto.

The Cathedral is decorated with frescoes from Fra Angelico.  Luca Singorelli's masterpiece, shown in this photo, is of Satan whispering into the ear of the Antichrist. It is ironic that the image seems to reflect as much on the current political climate as it did the day it was painted!

We stroll through the streets, dotted with ceramic stores boasting some of the finest pottery in the region, not unsurprising given our proximity to Capodimonte.

There are also wool makers here, weaving fine sweaters and scarves on looms, which are costly but worthwhile mementos from this beautiful town.

Our next stop is a rare surprise - Trippini a la Badia. We are so blessed to uncover this hidden gem gratis our dear friend Stefano.  In this medieval castle turned privileged hotel, Master Chef Paolo Trippini prepares the most delightful meal we have had all week - no easy feat considering we came here via Tuscany!

The Trippini is a favorite destination for Rome's elite, and even contains its own medieval chapel, the ideal setting for a unique wedding and gourmet reception to make a bride's every dream come true!

Our next stop is Bagnoregio, where we opt for a photo stop beneath the mile and a half walkway - the only method for gaining entrance to this hill town.  I scan faces with my zoom lens, noting smiles at the base gradually transformed into grimaces the higher we ascend, culminating in sheer joy when they reach the spectacular views from the pinnacle.  Unfortunately for us, two weeks of trekking through Europe has left us too weary to attempt the climb today, so we shall simply add this to our bucket list for the next visit!

Our next destination is Balsano, more readily reached and no less scenic, situated on the north side of the huge lake of the same name.

We enter the castle and ascend the spiral staircase for a stunning 360 degree view of the lake and surrounding town and mountains, and a unique perspective on the ingenuity of its medieval occupants who clearly designed the edifice to afford optimal offense against potential invaders.

We head across the town square to a building which is a macabre mix of an aquarium that is built over ancient Roman ruins still visible under its glass floors.  The top floor contains a gunnery turret recovered from the lake in a story which unfolds in pictures along its walls, and we marvel once more at the ingenuity of mankind over the ages!